Pictures for the curious

Paris Hilton with Curly Hair

I have gone up to the Citadel at Machu Picchu
three times now in one calendar year. If that does not make me the most spoiled boy South of L.A. I don't know what. However, each experience was rich, overwhelming and extremely invigorating. The word tangible always comes to my lips for whatever reason. I have never visited a place that made me trust in the ingenuity and spirit of humanity in the same way that Machu Picchu makes me feel. It is quite literally breathtaking. I think I would visit five days a week (save a day for watching sports and one for reading) if I could. I may not have a religious bone in me, but this 800 year old city situated precariously at the top of a cloud kissed mountain top makes me believe in humanity and will power. (insert deep sighing here) Plus it makes for some pretty fly pictures. The physical rigor of climbing the peak behind the city (Wayna Picchu) as well the circuitous day of traveling it takes to get to Aguas Calientes, the tiny tourist town situated at the bottom of the site, makes me feel as if I have accomplished something every time I walk through the gate into the sacred site. The lush Andean air, and the early morning sun (it's must to get there before sunrise) brings forth that word again. If that is not real, not tangible, nothing is.

Spiritual (and Physical) Ascendence

Imagine being very aware of your own proclivity to fall off the side of a cliff. Now imagine yourself surrounded by the most intact, extensive ruins you have ever seen in your life. Add a precarious hike up a vertical mountainside, your feet pounding several hundred ancient Inka stairs carved out of rock, and you'll begin to understand what it feels like to experience Machu Picchu in person.

Jaron and I arrived in Aguas Calientes the night of the 25th, eagerly anticipating a brief night of sleep and an early morning ascent to the Citadel of Machu Picchu. We arose before 5 am, purchased our entry tickets, and were quickly entering through the gates at Machu Picchu. Due to our haste, we (and a number of other international early-risers) were able to relax on stone terraces overlooking the ruins while the sun rose over the jagged Andes. As I watched the sun's rays slowly illuminate the lush, dense Andean mountainsides and then, gradually, the ruins of Machu Picchu, I was acutely aware of my own privilege and luck at having arrived at this incredibly spiritual site.

Throughout the day, as we hiked up the steep ascent to Wayna Picchu and descended along trails into the dense jungle below, these thoughts remained with me. Our fatigued muscles, sweat-drenched shirts and sunburned arms were a fair penance for access to the marvel that is Machu Picchu. Any physical challenge was only appropriate, and even an unfair exchange considering all that we would take away from it.

Reception in the Andes

As Caitlin and I voyaged through the highest heights of the Andes, on our way to Machu Picchu, we rode in a tiny group taxi called a collectivo (cheap, efficient and local) with a teenaged boy and a middle aged chola woman. (The indigenous women whom you often see wearing sweet hats) Miles away from any sort of development, amongst only ancient terraces and scattered llamas, the silence of our ride was broken by the catchy rhythm of a ringtone. It was not our twenty-something driver, nor the teen (conked out listening to an mp3 player) but instead the chola. Here we were some 12,000 feet up and she was not only on a cellphone but getting perfect reception! Whereas on Vashon, only miles from a major metropolitan American city, you are lucky to get patchy reception at best. She went on blabbering as I just grinned and stared at the passing adobe houses.

America Loves Change...Peruvians Not So Much

Evidently Peruvians would have a huge problem with Barack Obama because they hate change here. Fortunately, it's the monetary kind. For whatever reason getting vendors, restaurants, ticket agencies to give you the correct change for purchases is considered a major hassle. When Caitlin and I went to Machu Picchu (which there will be plenty of pictures and reflections upon) the man in the ticket booth to get into the site told us he did not have the 8 soles change we deserved. Even though 2,000 people go up to the citadel each day! I mean, they have plenty of money lying around. Come on. Eventually after some arguing (Caitlin's job) we got half of what we were owed.
Also Peruvians are ridiculously finicky about their money. It has to be crisp, new and perfect for it to be considered acceptable for use. Counterfeiters? Yes. National neuroses? Absolutely. So I guess Obama should stick to small states and the deep south and keep out of Peru.

Out of Breath, Overwhelmed by History

Well, one of the first comments that I will make is that everyone should more or less disregard the "sexy" post by Jaron. I have no idea where that one came from.

However, regarding the photograph below this post, of myself alongside an ancient Inka wall: I'd like to comment that each piece of rock (or boulder, I should say) stands at least 3-5 feet tall. These monstrosities are beautifully tamed, fitting together like a completed jigsaw puzzle so smoothly that their joints seem inexistent to the touch. Cusco has certainly fulfilled any romantic ideals or dreams that either Jaron or I could have dreamed up about Peru.

Ha! And I make that statement one day before we take off to visit one of the 7 wonders of the modern world: Machu Picchu. We leave within a matter of hours by bus, traveling through the Sacred Valley, to meet the train that will carry us to Machu Picchu (or very near there, at least). We will ascend to the mountaintop Inka city by 5 or 6 a.m. tomorrow morning, hopefully in time to meet the sun as it begins to illuminate the ancient ruins.

!Que Sexy!

Tchau,
Cata

Pisco Sour= fuzzy pictures

If you drink enogh pisco sours, the delectable and foamy national drink of Peru, everything starts to get this hazy, warm glow to it. Case in point this picture of Caitlin. Incidentally she's standing next to giant stone walls made by the Incas around 1200. The precision and details are astounding and make me appreciate dsl internet. I bet they never would have finished those walls if they knew about www.addictinggames.com... tonight we head to Machu Picchu.

Sexy Lighting

Yes there are fancy, ornate churches here too. Who could guess? I like how my beard fades into infinity in this picture. Makes me seem mystical.

Views of Cuzco

Here we see the view from our exquisite little hostel high in the hills of Cuzco. The town itself is compact and gorgeous, with white washed walls and stucco roofs galore. From certain perspectives it could be mistaken for some Tuscan town that Rick Steves would wax eloquent about. The days are sunny and warm, the nights chilly but comfortable. Throughout San Blas, the bohemian neighborhood, are swanky bars with ambient music and brightly colored couches. I feel like if I stayed here too long I might start waxing my eyebrows.

View from Our Last Hotel

This is the San Francisco Monestary. There are some mildly impressive catacombs beneath it. Also there is free wireless internet. The friars gotta read the blog somehow.

Sadly Enough, one of my main focal points during the last 2 days has been my GI system. One word of advice, if you ever visit Peru: If you want to avoid 'dem cramps, DO NOT try Chifa, Peru's ubiquitous Chinese cuisine. That's all I'm gonna say about that.

Luckily, other points of interest have also entered my Peruvian experience, most salient among those being the city of Cusco. Jaron and I arrived this morning, and were immediately greeted by a giddy, light-headed feeling not to be entirely associated with excitement. Oh yes my friends, altitude adjustment is in town.

Huffing and Puffing up the (maybe) 15 stairs to our hostel, Jaron and I reveled at just how out of shape we had become in the last 24 hours. Did we eat that many pastries in Lima? Nah, it's just the fact that we're carrying around 50-100 pounds of luggage uphill at 11,024 FEET ABOVE SEALEVEL!!! However, the effort is worth it: Our hostel boasts a breathtaking view of Cusco, from its tightly packed, red jigsaw rooftops to the tiny adobe houses winding up surrounding mountains. For all you who know me well, I immediately commented that a late night rooftop bottle of wine and some cheese was in order.

We hope to visit Machu Picchu as well as the Sacred Valley (a valley full of multiple Inca ruins and various archaeological sights between MP and Cusco) during the next few days. Then, we hop on a bus and head towards Copacabana....YAY!!!!

Will write again soon,
All my love (hugs and kisses)....
Caitlin

In the Andes

Left the hot hot heat of Lima for the comfortable, stunning
Andes and Cusco, a wildly charming and aesthetically pleasing
city. Our digs are beyond quaint. Peruvians continue to
astound with their friendliness and generosity. Today on the
ride to the airport our cab driver actually bought us candy. I don't see any surly New York cabbies doing that. Not so much.

Everything continues to be copascetic. Adventure abounds. Is that corny? It's probably corny. Anyway. Caitlin and I seem to have a knack for this blogging business (watch out Perez, that's all I'm gonna say) so expect the pictures and inciteful commentary to flow fast and furious. Tokyo drift style.

Plaza de Armas...it's pretty. And colorful.
And usually packed with people. Caitlin looks
vaguely like Richard Nixon. Squint and you
will see...

I'm happy. I swear. Really, I am.

What Jaron Said.

Saturday Evening

The world certainly is changing. Sitting on a patio, overlooking an outdoor courtyard, with turtles and many of God's other creatures crawling about (oh my cute puppies) my stale old computer is able to pick up wireless internet. Caitlin and I are already immersed in Lima's chaotic and sprawling excitement. There is more to do, more to see and more to eat in five blocks than in all of the Midwest. Our senses are tantalized constantly. Further, Peruvians continually astound with their friendliness. I swear every person will hold your hand and walk you wherever you need to get, and maybe buy a candy or two on the way. The food is good and overabundant. Portions are more than we health conscious northwesterners eat in a day (literally). We just went out for Chifa (Peruvian chinese fusion) and a plate of fried rice, which costs only a dollar, could feed a fat family in Houston for a week.
The weather is hot. We're savoring it for the time being, tomorrow we go up into the Andes. We've managed to wander from one end of this massive city to the other. Twice. I imagine we will make our way back here from time to time...if for no other reason than to be smacked in the face by the stifling humidity and views of the Pacific. Ok. I could write more. But that might make me a blogger...and that would be embarrassing.
until the next time we get wifi
J'aronimo

About to Go

Yeehaw...leaving tomorrow!